Definitions and Terminology

Hopefully this will help you better understand some of the various terms, names, and lingo in the call making world.  By no means is it a complete reference of call making terms, but hopefully it covers the bulk of the more common terminology in call making.

If you have a term you feel needs to be included here, please let us know!

Anvil Micrometer:  Micrometers are more accurate, consistent, and expensive than calipers.  Sometimes the added accuracy over a set of calipers is not needed, but sometimes it is.  May your budget and needs dictate your approach to measuring equipment.   We typically use micrometers for tenons of any location where fitting to another part is necessary – such as keg tenons (for best fit to the jig and barrel) and band tenons (to ensure a proper press fit for the band).

Arkansas Style Call:  An AR style call is one where the tone board and cork notch are integrated into the keg.  Whereas a LA style call will have 4-5 components to the keg (Keg body, tone board, reed(s), and wedge), the AR style call will have the keg body, tone board, and cork notch as one solid piece, a cork, and reed(s).  The majority of higher end and custom small shop calls are AR style.

Back Bore: This is basically enlarging the exhaust bore of the keg from the end (exhaust end) back towards the tone board.  Various changes in the diameter and amount of the back boring, taper, or shape used helps to tailor the volume and amount of air required to blow the call as well as how it sounds.

Barrel:  The barrel of a duck call is the portion of the call that you blow into.  This part of the call has a hole all the way through it that holds the other end of the call when it is assembled.  The barrel is usually the easiest part of the call to build.  Described in its most generic form, the barrel is plainly a piece of material, shaped however you would like, with a hole through it.  Some might call turning a barrel a "wood working project" as compared to "call making" as there is little more to it than drill a hole and shape it.

Bore Micrometer:  These guys measure one thing… hole size.  They are typically more expensive to purchase, or, the less expensive ones are less convenient to operate.   Some operate similarly to an anvil micrometer (have a rotating screw with increments marked on the body and collar), while others utilize a dial indicator and are more designed for comparative measurements instead of absolute measuring.   A bore mic will usually have a limited range for each tool, but will yield an actual measurement at the time of use.   Comparative bore mics will likely have a larger range, but you will have to calibrate it to the specific size you want, then zero out the dial, and then use that as a reference as to how the existing hole relates to the standard it was set to.   Many time, comparative bore mics are set using an anvil micrometer as the standard, and then compare what the bore is in relation to what the anvil mic was set at.

Calipers:  Calipers are a measuring device that can measure OD and ID dimensions.  Keep in mind that going from OD to ID measuring with the same pair of calipers will likely have variance between methods unless one calibrates the calipers to a known standard prior to using either method.  Typically, a gauge pin or gauge bloc of know diameter/thickness is used to get a quick calibration for OD measuring and a gauge ring is used to calibrate prior to ID measuring.   A good rule of thumb is to not trust calipers for accuracy any better than +/-0.005”.   If you want higher accuracy than a potential .010 swing, you need to start looking at other types of equipment such as bore micrometers and anvil micrometers.   A cheap Chinese anvil micrometer is likely to be more accurate than an expensive set of calipers.

CNC:  Computer Numeric Control.  CNC is a general term for the method of controlling a machine (Lathe, Mill, EDM, Grinder, etc...) not a specific machine or process.  Example:  Manual machine (a person physically operates the movement of the machine) vs a CNC Machine (where a person creates a program for the computer to run that operates the movement of the machine).  CNC machines excel with large quantities of the same part.  That is when they are most efficient and cost effective.  Inversely, they are least efficient and more expensive when doing small quantities of parts.   That is why you might see a quote for $800-$1000 for a single call to be made, but getting 500 of the same call made might be $30-40 each.

Collet Chuck:  C swing, you need to start looking at other types of equipment such as bore micrometers and anvil micrometers.   A cheap Chinese anvil micrometer is likely to be more accurate than an expensive set of calipers.

Cork:  The cork is the part of the Arkansas style call that holds the reed in place in the cork notch though it can be other materials besides cork, such as rubber or soft and flexible plastic.   Typically called "the cork" because that was the material most commonly used, prior to rubber type materials becoming more readily available.  Basically, the cork is a small block of material that is just small enough to fit in the notch, but fits tightly enough that it firmly holds the reed and keeps it from moving.  Some call it a "wedge", which in most cases is a little more accurate.

Cork Notch:  The cork notch is the part of an Arkansas style call that is built as part of the soundboard where the reed is placed into the notch, and a piece of cork or rubber is pushed inside this notch to hold the reed in place.  

Cork Tang:  The part of the cork notch that is holding the cork down onto the reed, the top of the cork notch. In some cases, the end face of the cork tang may or may not completely cover the cork.  

Custom Jig:  A custom jig is made by mapping your own, original design, call, many times referred to as your prototype.   The tone board is mapped and a CAD drawing is made, and then that profile is cut onto a hardened steel jig blank.  

“Cutdown Style” Tone board:  This board style is more or less mimicking the length and aggressive board design predominantly shown on Olt calls that have been modified or “cut down” by someone in an attempt to customize it.   These boards are aggressively upslope and notably longer than the typical AR style tone board.   A “cutdown” tone board is an AR style tone board in operational design, but the tone board is very different than the typical AR style call.

Deck Height:  This is the measurement from the bottom of the tenon to the surface of the tone board.   Can be taken in various locations, but when discussing deck height, you will want to verify the location at which the measurement is taken.  Most commonly measured at the face of the cork tang on parallel and down slope tone boards, and at the highest point anywhere on the board on upslope tone boards.  

Dog-ears: This refers to cutting off the two corners of the operational end of the reed.  Dog-ears are usually cut at approximately a 45-degree angle from the sides of the reed.  These small cuts can have an effect on the overall sound and operation of the call.

Downslope Tone board:  The tone board surface from the back of the cork notch proceeding outward has a slight downward path, as compared to being parallel to the tenon, or sloping upwards before transitioning downward.   The reed will point slightly downward from parallel to the tenon or centerline of the keg.   This is quite uncommon as it is a more difficult design to get right.   The call locking up is a huge reason for this style not being common.

Drill Bit:  Drill bits come in many various configurations.  Though there are many other kinds of bits on the market today, the more common types of bits used in call making are Jobber, Brad Point, and Forstner bits.  Something that is important to remember is that most drills drill a hole that is somewhat larger than the size listed for the drill.  There are numerous factors that contribute to this, which is one of the reasons drilling accurate holes is much more challenging than most give credit for.   Also, one of the reasons chucking reamers can be quite helpful in some materials. 

Drill Chuck:  This is a tool used to hold round tools such as drill bits and reamers.   They have various mounting styles to fit various applications.   In call making the most common setup is a drill chuck with at least a ½” capacity (5/8 or larger is recommended) and an arbor that has a Morse Taper shank to mount into your tail stock.  In most cases, one will need to purchase the arbor and the drill chuck separately and assemble them together.   Drill chucks usually have either a threaded mounting hole or a Jacobs Taper.   Most arbors are available with the Jacobs Taper on one end and the Morse Taper on the opposite.  BE SURE that you match the Morse Taper to the socket on your lathe AND match the Jacobs taper on the arbor to the taper socket in the drill chuck body.

Flat Jig:  More or less, its exactly as the name implies…   It is a jig that has a flat tone board, and a corresponding cork notch.   The point of flat jigs is to get a starting point with a quality cork notch, to then go to work hand filing to find your own design/sound.  

Jig:  A call making “Jig” is a piece of steel that has a shape already machined into it and is used as a guide for shaping your calls soundboard.   Various kinds of jigs are available these days…  Flat jigs, Public Jigs (starting points/learning tool, a jig with a tone board designed by someone else and released to the public for general use – typically a sub-standard tone board design to aid beginners in getting started but not of a quality that one would want to use as is for a finished product to sell), and Custom Jigs (a jig that is made from your original prototype to mimic it as closely as possible.   If you are looking for a way to speed up the call making process or boost reliability in the call making process, a custom jig is a great, though somewhat costly, addition to the work bench.

Keg:  The keg, as I call it, also known as a “stopper” or “insert”, is the portion of the call that can really be described as the business end of the call.  The keg has many jobs to do.  For one, it holds the reed in place and gives it something to vibrate against and make noise.  It also has to create a tight seal so that there isn’t any air leaking out between the two pieces.  There is much to learn about this part of the call, and it will get some major typing time in the coming chapters.

Louisiana style call:  In a Louisiana style call, the reed and the soundboard are held in place in the keg body by what is called a “Wedge”, a half round piece of wood, plastic, rubber, or some other material that holds the reed in place between it and the soundboard.  The three pieces are simultaneously pushed into the keg bore and “wedged” inside, thus being held in place.  If you are familiar with most short reed goose calls on the market today, you have seen a Louisiana style call design.

Mandrel:  Mandrels are a wonderful tool for a call maker to use, especially when turning barrels.  A mandrel basically allows you to drill a hole in your material and then turn the outside of the part in relation to the bored hole.  Using a mandrel (predominantly with barrels) will really help with keeping the bore of the part centered to the outside of the call, making the barrel much more professional looking.  There are many styles of mandrels available.  

Milling:  Cutting or machining a part on a mill or similar equipment, where the part is stationary and the tool has cutting edges and rotates in a spindle.

OAL:  Stands for Over all length.  Total length of a part.  

Parallel Tone Board:  As the name implies, the beginning portion of the tone board from the back of the cork notch outward is parallel to the tenon or centerline of the keg.  The reed of a parallel board will set parallel to the tenon when installed, as compared to tipping upward in an upslope board, or slightly downward in a downslope board.

Pedestal (Jig) :  The pedestal of a jig is the area between the back of the jig itself and the back of the cork notch.   It is the “pedestal” in which the top portion of the jig that creates the top of the cork notch, is attached.

Profile (Tone board): The tone board profile, “ramp”, or the “radius” of the soundboard is a generic name for the portion of the soundboard that dictates the sound of the call.  It is basically a nonlinear slope descending from the cork notch and ending at the tip of the soundboard.

Public Jig:  A public jig is more or less a starting place to start learning, but enough of a “tone board shape” to it, that it will at least make a sound.   These are NOT intended to make you an instant call maker…  merely get you to a point where you can start experimenting and learning, faster.  Most if not all public jigs are lacking in overall quality so as not to be “giving away” someone’s own hard work of designing a great sounding call.   WEBFoot Custom Calls Public Jigs are lacking, and lacking on purpose…   Material was added in various places so that one has to learn their way around a tone board to get to something that is of custom made quality.

Reamers:  These come in two basic varieties, tapered and straight.  Tapered reamers are handy for opening up the exhaust end of the call to create less backpressure (the back bore), increase the amount air allowed to flow and can make the call louder.  They are usually operated by hand rather than under power of a lathe or drill but both are available.  Straight reamers (also known as Chucking Reamers) are primarily used when opening up a bore to a specific size with good accuracy.  They are designed for making a clean and precision sized hole in the material you are working.  Chucking reamers usually require a much slower RPM and faster feed to achieve the desired bore size in relation to the reamer size, as compared to the clearance drill used to start the hole.  Typically, one will drill a hole that is 1/64 – 1/32 smaller than the reamer being used.  Chucking reamers will usually run about HALF of the RPM and DOUBLE the feed rate of the same size drill.  Many wood working lathes do not run slow enough RPMs to effectively use a chucking reamer to its fullest potential.

Reed:  The reed a piece of plastic or metal that is held in place one of two ways, depending on the style of call.  Mylar is the primary plastic material used for calls.  Mylar has many different looks and properties depending on the source and composition.  The most common Mylar used for calls is ‘Mylar A’ in 0.010” thickness and it has a milky white color to it.  

Reelfoot Tone Board:   These calls are a cross between an AR style, a LA style, and something of their own…  The tone board of a Reelfoot style call is FLAT.  The keg and “tone board” are one piece (like an AR style, but there is no cork notch, it has a tapered wedge that holds the reed in place when the keg is placed in the barrel (this is somewhat similar to a LA style – though in a LA style, the wedge, reed, and board are held together in the keg, independently of the barrel).  Since the tone board is flat, the profile is bent into the reed.  Typically, the reeds are made of a metal material such as stainless steel, brass, or bronze shim material.

Spacer (Jig):  A spacer can be made, when having a custom jig made, that would allow you to locate your keg in the jig in the same location in relation to a shoulder that has been left on the keg.  Keeping the tone channel in the correct place in this process is up to you.

Step Bits or Taper Bits: These are handy for back boring the insert to reduce backpressure, using the same theory as a tapered hand reamer.  There are various styles, sizes, and configurations available.

Tone Board: The tone board is the portion of the keg or insert that makes the call make sound.  The soundboard consists of: the sounding surface, the tone channel, the ramp, radius, profile, or tongue (part of the sounding surface), and at the back portion of the soundboard is the cork notch.  We won’t get into how a duck call actually makes its sound...   that might start an all-out war. :D

Tone Channel:  The portion of the exhaust bore drilled in the keg that is exposed when the tone board is cut.  The length and depth of the tone channel has a large effect of the sound and volume of the call as well as air volume required and operational characteristics.  Terminology varies when describing the tone channel in terms of length and depth based on the vantage point of the viewer.  Most commonly, “Tone Channel Depth” is the same as “Tone Channel Length”, and is intended to mean the length the tone channel is drilled into the tone board before it stops.   But “Tone Channel Depth” can be a feature of the tone board in relation to its location relative to the surface of the tone board.  Typically, if a keg is drilled off-center, and then located so that the off-center portion farthest from the centerline is located under the tone board before the tone board is cut, thus making the tone channel deeper when comparing to the top of the tone board – that could also be considered a “deeper tone channel”.  But most typically, if one says, “make your tone channel deeper or shallower” they are meaning length or distance you have fed the drill bit into the keg.

Turning:  Cutting or machining a part on a Lathe, where the material moves and the cutter is stationary.

Upslope Tone board:  Upslope boards are as the name implies, sloped upward at some point, typically sloping up from the back of the cork notch to some point beyond the cork notch, and then start to descend back downward again. In a way, this actually describes the angle of the reed when it leaves the cork notch more so than the board itself.  If the reed is tipped upwards from parallel to the tenon, it is an upslope tone board.