Choosing a Public Jig
So you want a public jig eh? And you want to know which one is the best - right? Well I got some bad news... there ISN'T a "best" - there is just jigs, pick one and go at it.
I know that sounds almost silly, but hear me out. I truly believe if you don't have a preconceived notion or preference already, about which style of jig you want, then just flip a coin. I really mean that - flip a coin! Don't waste you're time researching things to death. Just get a jig, any jig and start learning. Better yet! Don't use a jig at all! Use a file and a hack saw or what ever - and learn the "hard way". In the end, you will learn SO MUCH MORE by going that route. That's how I started out when I was 10 years old... and if I could do it, so can you.
One can get the same quality sounds from an upslope as they can from a parallel designed call more or less, so in the end - its taking two different streets to the same place. You see, do, and learn different things along the way, but you end up in the same place. If you want to experiment with the differences, then by all means, get both... heck grab a flat jig while you're at it, its even cheaper than the publics... But if you're looking for the answer to the question "Which is a better jig - the PJ1, PJ2 or PJ3?" I'm sorry but there is no answer for that... only opinions.
The PJ1 is the first jig we designed. Its been around since about 2003. It has the shortest tone board when you account for effective length (the tip comes to a point, some feel that is wasted length and thus has a shorter effective length when compared to a tone board of the same length but with a blunt/squared end). The PJ2 was the second jig added to the line up in the early 2010's. It is an upslope board. The PJ3 is the most recent addition, and is a lengthened version of the PJ1 with the addition of a taller deck height and a longer cork notch. It is the longest tone board of the public jigs.
What sound do the WFCC public jigs produce "straight off the jig"? That is not something I will discuss. There are no sound files, I don't have any and I wont make any. Don't ask, I wont reply with anything other than a link to this page. Our personal feeling is, if a jig maker is giving you a sound file for their jigs, or boasting that its the same jig they use, they are just trying to sell you their own sound board design and make a sale (and there is getting to be more and more of them these days as people start to think there is tons of money to be made). Our jigs are designed to help one learn, not give away a sound board - there is purpose behind the material left or removed from the jigs we make - trying to leave as many possibilities open as we can. Then of course, there are the Flat Jigs that take that another step farther... which basically gets you a good repeatable cork notch and flat surface. If we were to recommend the best way to learn, we would suggest a flat jig - but it seems many are not interested in truly learning sound board creation and are far too impatient for that these days.
What sound the sound boards make straight off the jig is irrelevant... Because they are not designed or intended to be used that way. They are designed and intended to be used as STARTING POINT TO LEARN FROM. Yes, I bolded and capitalized that because I feel it is extremely important! Too many people want to buy a jig so that they can magically become a "Call maker" and start selling calls. I designed these jigs to help people learn to become call makers, not give them a sound board design so they can start selling calls as soon as the jig arrives.
About the only advise about choosing a jig that I can really offer (shy of suggesting you check out others opinions on the various call making forums) is:
Typically - a parallel design tends to lend itself more easily to a loud and clean sounding call, and an upslope tends to lend itself more readily to a raspier call. But, with the right knowledge and experience, one can, generally speaking, make either design platform do the same things as the other can. It's all about determination and finding that sound you're looking for. And I bet if you look long enough, you will find plenty of people that disagree with my generalization... which just further illustrates how much it truly is preference.
Another option that come into play is deck height. And again, there are a lot of variables that it can create - but again, just like the Upslope vs the Parallel - its another street to the same place. The current "fad" (if there ever is one) seem to be leaning towards taller deck heights - but the feeling is, that it is based more so on the current calls being made, and the features of the most prominent calls of the time - and it is expected to change as time goes on. Maybe YOU will be the one to set the next fad by thinking outside the box?
I know it sounds counter intuitive - but it really is the way it is - at least in my eyes. Flip a coin... take your favorite call apart and look at it, is it an upslope? Then get an upslope jig - or visa versa. The meat and potatoes is in the hands on alterations you're going to make - not the cookie cutter starting point.
If you still don't know or you want to learn as much as possible in the process, then maybe you want to get a flat jig and just start from there... then there are no influences on the tone board from a public jig's shape. Choosing a deck height is going to be more or less a coin flip - barring one detail that may help you decide... That detail is... Deck height really doesn't mean much in relation to the bottom of the tenon, but what it DOES affect is the tone channel. How much of it is exposed, how deep (depth under the board surface), and volume of air that it can carry are all things the deck height CAN influence. A taller deck height will potentially allow more air flow through the call... Whether that is good or bad for your situation - only you can answer that. Up until about 5-8 years ago, a deck height in the range of .325"-.335" was most common. But starting 5-8 years ago there was a shift towards taller deck heights - that is when we started making the FJ.350.
In the end, its a Catch 22 and it is ALL UP TO YOU and what YOU do AFTER it comes off the jig... I can't give you any information on which to pick, because I don't know what YOU are going to do after you get the keg off the jig because I can't see the future. :D
On a positive note... its fairly simple to sell a jig that "isn't your style" on the used market. Between FB, IG, and so forth, you can usually move a used jig quickly and without taking a huge bath on the cost.
Cheers!