PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE PAGE:  There are questions below that we require answers to in order to verify pricing and other specific details that pertain to making your jig.

****  BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOUR NAME, E-MAIL ADDRESS, AND INFO WITH THE PROTOTYPE OR ON THE BOX SO WE KNOW WHO IT BELONGS TO!!!  We get a lot of prototypes with no reference to the name that the emails are sent from - and end up having to play detective to figure out who's prototype it is.

With the increase in popularity of the "cutdown" mimic tone board designs, we have had to add an option for "over-length" boards (1.8" and longer - back of cork notch to tip of board) to cover the added time/work involved.  The add-on for boards that are 1.8 and longer is $25, and the option was added to the drop down box above.  Please be aware of this change.  We decided that it is better to apply the upcharge only to the boards that require it than to do an "across the board" price increase.

Turn around time - if the needed jig blank is in stock:
Estimated turn-around time is 4-8 weeks - but usually faster.  We suggest you PLAN ON 8 WEEKS and be pleasantly surprised if its faster.  Please don't email and ask what our current turn around time is, or how things are going, or how much longer we think it might be.  If we have questions or issues, we will contact you.   The last thing we do, is verify everything, if it comes out, we are done.  If it doesn't, we start over from scratch - so we wont know when it's done, until it's done... and at that point, it will be done so it will be ready to pack and ship.  We would rather spend our time working on jobs than typing emails explaining where we are in the process. :D

Shipping address for your prototype:  

WEBFoot Custom Calls
14982 County Road 6
Wiggins, CO 80654

Choose the appropriate option from the Options listed above.   You must have a selection for each option.  We prefer to have the answers to the questions below PRIOR to the customer making payment, in case there are special circumstances.

If you need a duplicate jig of a previously made design or want a second jig made at the same time, please see Duplicate Custom Duck Jig

Jig blanks are made from high quality tool steel and through hardened to 61-65HRC (hardness varies a little from blank to blank and batch to batch).  Avoid use of tools harder than ~55-58Rc as they can start to wear on the jig because they are so close in hardness.  We suggest the use of Nicholson files as they have proven to be very consistent over the years.

 Click HERE to read our article that covers these questions in more detail.

***PLEASE E-MAIL US THE ANSWERS TO ALL OF THE FOLLOWING QUESTIONS OR THAT YOU WANT US TO "DO OUR THING"***

If any questions (1-6) are irrelevant to your jig/situation - please list the answer as Not Applicable so that we know that you have read the question are saying it is irrelevant to you, and that we can do as we see fit.  Please include any other details that you feel may be of importance to you, or pertinent to making your jig such as: shoulder locate, spacer for locating off the back of the jig, cork notch tapered or parallel, etc...  If there is anything that you do, that you feel makes your design different from everyone else (aside from the board profile), please mention it!

1.)  Length of your sound board from tip to back of cork notch. You will need to know this to select the proper option above when paying. 

This is the dimension from the back of the cork notch to the tip of the tone board.  The maximum tone board length that will fit our standard pre-prepped blanks is 2.200".  Tone boards that are 1.800" - 2.200" have a slightly increased cost to cover the additional time required.

 2.)  Desired jig blank bore diameter (if our standard blank with a bore of .624-.626" is not an acceptable size).  This will need to be specified above when making a payment.

95% of the jigs we have made that are out there get made from our "standard blank".

3.)  Cork Notch replication or alteration:   We will need this information emailed to us - it is NOT addressed in the above drop down options.

Do you want us to replicate your cork notch as best we can or do you have specification for the cork notch you want us to use?   Keep in mind - we NEED dimensions for the notch!   We can't ready your mind to know what a "good fit" is on what ever cork you are going to use.   Our Public and Flat jigs all have .165" high cork notches and they are all parallel to the tone board surface under the notch. 

4.)  Do you want to locate off of the back of the jig?  You may or may not need to email us about this.  If you select to have a spacer made, we will know you want a spacer and what material - but if you wish to make your own spacer, you will need to include this in the email to us with the remaining questions.

CONTACT US FIRST - If you want your jig made to use the back of the jig as the "stop" and DO NOT want a spacer - we will have to go through the details PRIOR to making payment on the jig, as we will have to see if the added length will allow the profile to fit on the standard pre-prepped blanks.  Keep in mind, the blanks are prepped and hardened - so we are unable to move the set screw location without creating a new custom blank and having it heat treated (which will add significant time and cost to the process).

We suggest you use a spacer between the shoulder of the keg and the jig for locating the depth of the keg into the jig.  Using a spacer instead of altering the jig allows one to make inexpensive adjustments rather than added expense of altering a jig after the fact.   There are two options for spacers:  Steel (recommended for durability) or Acrylic.  This only works well with designs with a shoulder.   We STRONGLY suggest that you do NOT opt for this method of you are using a taper lock style keg.

5.)  How you want your tone board located on the jig blank?  You will need to email us your preference on this, it is not covered in the options above.
Click HERE to read our article that covers these questions in more depth.

Option 1: Locate based off of the centerline of the keg - this usually works best for those who do not maintain consistent tenon diameters.  This usually ends up with a deck height that is higher than the prototype unless the tenon is right on 0.624" and cylindrical.

Option 2: Locate based off of the bottom of the tenon (ie bottom of the jig bore where the keg would sit) - this usually works best for those who have very consistent tenon diameters and desire a specific deck height that is not corrected for a different diameter.

Option 3:  Let us decide for you.  We will need to know what your ideal tenon diameter is or will be.  This is also part of the "Do Our Thing" option.

All in all - if you are still not sure how you want the profile located on the jig blank after reading the above info - our suggestion is OPTION 1

6.)  Do you intend on using the jig for adding grooves in the tone board (commonly called 'spit grooves') using a mill or drill press and the jig as a holding fixture when doing so?   You will need to include this information in your email to us.  It is not addressed with the above options.

Jig blanks used for this method of adding grooves are more accurately centered side to side so that either side can be used along the guide/fence

***NEW Option***   An alternate option to dealing with the above questions.

The new option is called, "Do your thing".   If you dont know the answer to the questions above or none of them matter to you, you can opt to tell me to "do you thing".  I will make your jig, as if I were making it for myself - and do my absolute best based on my experience, preferences, most common chosen options.  I might have one or two simple questions, but generally, Ill just "do my thing".  This carries one warning....   What you get is what you get.  There won't be a "do-over" if you don't like it.   Sure, if I completely miss the mark (when comparing the prototype to the jig), Ill remake it, but that comparison is done here before it ever ships out.

If you want me to "Do my thing", please put, "Do your thing on the jig" in the comments at check out.  That will tell us you're sending it, no email with the above questions, and that I need to check it out, confirm pricing with you, and then get it going.  You can also email with that information.

PLEASE BE SURE TO INCLUDE THIS INFORMATION IN YOUR EMAIL.  It is the "meat and potatoes" of the whole shebang.  :D

Blank Bore size options:   Alternate Blank Bore Options MAY be available in stock - but we stock very few of any option and it may be a long waiting period until we might have more - Contact us if you have a specific request for your jig blank and we can let you know what the scoop is on that specific size.  Here are the most frequent sizes we have seen over the years... and may have on hand or options to achieve what you are after.

Please - Please - Oh Please.... contact us first before choosing and paying for an alternate jig bore option above...  We want to be sure we have what you're after and that you have all of the options and details prior to committing money to the endeavor.

Custom Arkansas Style Duck Jig - for tone boards that are ≈5/8" tenon diameter (jig blank bore of .624-.626") and shorter than 1.800" (back of cork notch to tip of sound board - using a standard 0.200" pedestal).  Tone boards that have a bore requirement other than .624-.626" AND/OR 1.800" and longer will have additional cost and potentially a notable delay in turn-around time.

The distance from the back of the cork notch to the back of the jig will be 0.200" unless otherwise arranged (question #4 above - this we have termed the "Pedestal"), so be sure that you have enough tenon as to not stop the keg short of fitting all the way in the jig.  The set screw will be centered 0.200" forward of the back face of the jig.

There is no physical damage done to the prototype during the mapping process and is returned to you with the finished jig.

***Please contact us via email before you can order a Custom Jig on the Online Store.  That way if there are any surprises, we can let you know in advance.***

Shipping and insurance is INCLUDED with the jig, but does NOT cover the value of the prototype.   If you wish to add insurance to cover the prototype please include that information in the email with the questions.

Be sure to insure YOUR package when you send it to us, in case of loss by the shipper, as WEBFoot Custom Calls is not liable for any items lost by the shipping company when in transit TO or FROM WFCC.   

True "Cut down" Jigs:  Taking an Olt or other makers call and putting your "cut" on it, and then having a jig made is a completely different breed of disaster - the tenon of the tone board is the base line...the most critical area of the mapping process, and molded Olt's are not known for having good tenons.   On top of that, we are dealing with SOMEONE ELSE'S design that you then altered some or all of...  And we have to discern what is yours and what is the originators design, and then make a jig that will only supply your portion and NOT replicate the originators portion.  Making a "cut down" jig will be expensive, and it will be "at YOUR OWN RISK" due to the lack of consistent and accurate features if using an original Olt and if its a machined version with a good tenon, the cost is still there for mapping an original and your cut version and comparing to separate the areas that will be included on the jig.   In making custom jigs since 2003, we have yet to have one come in that we were willing to make (due to lack of alteration) or that the customer was willing to take the risk on a less than predictable outcome.   The phrase, "It won't be good, or, it wont be cheap" comes to mind - and we try and stay in the realm of "its gonna be good".

***ORIGINALITY NOTICE***

WE WILL NOT copy someone else's tone board, design, reed shape, etc...  for anyone other than the originator of that tone board.  DO NOT send someone else's tone board for us to copy for you.

We take comments and concerns voiced to us by other call makers very seriously.  We can not possibly know every tone board out there from every maker - but when a call maker contacts us with a concern about another customer/potential customer of ours, we investigate until we are satisfied or we wont make the jig.  In this day and age - apparently many feel its acceptable to copy others design, duplicate a public jig profile, or map multiple big name calls and make an amalgamation of those via various techniques and call it "their own design".  We feel this is not an ethical way to proceed with call making and we do our best to not enable this kind of behavior.  So we investigate.  Love us or hate us for it - that's what we do.  We reserve the right to "make public" any unethical actions that we discover.

Do not sand, grind, or use carbide tools on the jig unless you are purposefully trying to alter the shape.  Jigs are designed to withstand normal steel cutting tools such as files and saws with a maximum hardness of 58RHC - some cheap files have been known to be harder than that or have inclusions that are, and have been known to cut into the jig surface.  Do not use a hammer on any hardened part or tool as it may fracture and cause injury.